James Cook on the BC Coast: Nootka Sound, Missed Straits, and a Map That Waited for Vancouver

In 1778 James Cook reached the west coast of what is now British Columbia during his third Pacific voyage. He refitted at Nootka Sound, traded for sea‑otter pelts, named headlands, and sailed north toward Alaska. What he did not do was prove that Vancouver Island was an island—a discovery that had to wait for the next generation.

Portrait of Captain James Cook by Nathaniel Dance-Holland, c. 1775
James Cook, c. 1775, National Maritime Museum (Nathaniel Dance‑Holland). Source: Wikimedia Commons file page.

Why he came to the North Pacific

Cook’s third voyage (1776–1780) had a scientific gloss—returning Omai to the Society Islands—but the strategic brief was to probe for a Northwest Passage from the Pacific side. After two years in the Pacific, Cook turned to the North American coast in early 1778 and worked his way north looking for a navigable opening through the continent.

Nootka Sound, March–April 1778

On March 29, 1778, Cook’s ships Resolution and Discovery reached Nootka Sound on the outer coast of today’s Vancouver Island. They anchored in what his charts call Ship Cove—now Resolution Cove on Bligh Island—and stayed about a month, taking observations and refitting. Nuu‑chah‑nulth people from Yuquot (Friendly Cove) supplied fish, water, and timber; iron and copper were prized trade goods. The crew also acquired sea‑otter pelts—items that would later fetch striking prices in Canton and ignite the maritime fur trade.

Yuquot (Friendly Cove), ancestral home of the Mowachaht/Muchalaht
Yuquot (Friendly Cove), Nootka Island—the summer home of the Mowachaht/Muchalaht. Source: Wikimedia Commons file page.
Engraving after John Webber showing interior of a Nuu-chah-nulth house at Nootka Sound
Interior of a house at Nootka Sound, engraving after John Webber from the official account of Cook’s third voyage (1784). Source: Wikimedia Commons file page.

Names and misunderstandings

In his charts Cook briefly labeled the inlet King George’s Sound before adopting the name Nootka, a term shaped by miscommunication. Later writers traced “Nootka” to Cook’s hearing of phrases at Yuquot, possibly a description of a place you can go around, or confusion between the village and the people. Today Nuu‑chah‑nulth is the accepted name for the language and cultural group on this coast.

Why Cook missed the Strait—and the island

Sailing north along the outer coast in March 1778, Cook named Cape Flattery but passed the mouth of the Strait of Juan de Fuca without recognizing a major opening to inland seas. Fierce weather and the angle of approach hid the strait’s extent. Cook never entered the Strait of Georgia nor circumnavigated the landmass we call Vancouver Island, so his charts showed a rugged coast but not an island. Two decades later, in 1792, George Vancouver—working independently and in concert with Spanish captains Galiano and Valdés—traced the channels and proved the insularity of Vancouver Island.

Cape Flattery looking north toward Vancouver Island
Cape Flattery at the mouth of the Strait of Juan de Fuca—named by Cook in March 1778. Source: Wikimedia Commons file page.

From pelts to a Pacific business

Cook’s crew learned in Canton that sea‑otter pelts from the North Pacific commanded extraordinary prices. Their windfall launched a rush: British, then American and other traders returned in the 1780s to barter for furs on the Coast and sell them in China, knitting the BC coast into a new trans‑Pacific economy based on sea‑otter skins, tea, and silver.

What came after

Cook’s brief stay at Nootka helped place the region on European maps and in mercantile imagination. Within a decade, the Spanish established a post at Yuquot and clashed with British traders in the Nootka Sound crisis of 1789–1794. Vancouver’s detailed surveys in 1792–1794 finished the cartographic picture Cook had begun and finally showed Vancouver Island as an island, the Salish Sea as a complex inland waterway, and the passage north toward Alaska.

Map showing routes of Cook’s three voyages
Routes of Cook’s three voyages; the third‑voyage track shows his run up the BC outer coast in 1778. Source: Wikimedia Commons file page.

Additional images

A View of the Habitations in Nootka Sound, after John Webber
A view of habitations in Nootka Sound, after John Webber (published 1784). Source: Wikimedia Commons file page.
Friendly Cove (Yuquot) at Nootka Sound
Friendly Cove (Yuquot), Nootka Sound. Source: Wikimedia Commons file page.
A Man of Nootka Sound, drawing by John Webber, c. 1778
A Man of Nootka Sound, John Webber, published 1784. Source: Wikimedia Commons file page.

References

  1. Captain Cook at Nootka Sound and month‑long refit with trading at Yuquot; dates of March 29 to April 26, 1778. Times Colonist; Royal Museums Greenwich object notes.
  2. Cook’s brief use of King George’s Sound and the origin of the term Nootka; Nuu‑chah‑nulth naming. Nootka Sound entry; Canadian Encyclopedia.
  3. Cook names Cape Flattery and misses the Strait of Juan de Fuca; sails on to Nootka. HistoryLink; Captain Cook Society.
  4. Sea‑otter pelts’ high prices in Canton and the rise of the maritime fur trade. Northwest Power & Conservation Council; Maritime fur trade overview.
  5. Vancouver (with Galiano and Valdés) proves Vancouver Island’s insularity in 1792. Parks Canada.
  6. General background on Cook’s third voyage and track maps. Wikipedia third voyage; Princeton maps feature.